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冲浪

威尔士冲浪|忘记康沃尔斯,西威尔士是波浪最好的地方

冲浪在“神秘和魔法之地”

alf alderson的单词和摄影|Whitesands的主要照片Charlie Sime

我只是回来检查冲浪在我当地的休息。这是一个灰色,潮湿的一天(我们毕竟在威尔士......),温柔的风在略微穿越/陆上,这可能解释缺乏人们在适度的胸部高膨胀。二,精确,其中一个人抵达后五分钟。

然而,在过去几周中,我们有几天膨胀已经干净,甚至可能是阳光明媚的,而且阵容中仍然没有十个人。水温是在高青少年,每个人都知道彼此,所以有很多小铛 - 什么不喜欢?为什么我们很少有人喜欢它?

“在年度暑假外面,这总是很安静,......可以为冲浪体验添加一定的魅力。”

也许这个区域的中世纪威尔士术语,'gwlad hud一个leledrith'(“神秘和魅力的土地”)甚至在21中仍然适用英石世纪,对于年夏天假期的外面,它总是非常安静的象鼻,这是一个谜团 - 并且可以为冲浪体验增加一定的魅力。

曾经被称为北方的地区,这更适用于此笨拙的gwaelod.(the Lowland Hundred), despite the fact that both areas can be reached in little more time than it takes to get to Cornwall (this obviously depends on where you live, but since London generally regards itself as the focal point of the known universe let’s use that as the reference point).

Yet people were riding waves in west Wales only three or four years after surfing was ‘introduced’ to Cornwall and North Devon, and photos exist of members of Whitesands-based Porthmawr Surf Life Saving Club taken in the early sixties, when the club was based in an old railway carriage; huge old planks are visible in the picture, no doubt owned by members of the club.

“在冲浪后,人们在西威尔士队骑在西威尔士骑行,以”介绍“康沃尔和北德文郡......”

几年前,我在俱乐部创始人中被展示了这张照片,乔治·米德尔顿博士乔治米德尔顿博士。Now in his nineties and still getting into the surf occasionally on an old belly board, George’s children and grandchildren are also surfers and like most locals – indeed, like most surfers anywhere – they’ve made it their business to get out and explore the world’s waves everywhere from Indo to Costa Rica before returning home to snag a few at their local breaks.

At the same time as the lifeguards of Porthmawr SLSC were dragging members of the public from the sea at Whitesands, Pembrokeshire’s primo surf beach of Freshwater West was receiving regular visits from small groups of surfers based further east in Gower, Porthcawl and the Cardiff area, so west Wales’ surfing heritage is long, even if it is relatively unsung.

其中一个地区的冲浪先锋是保罗·米奇,在六十年代之前在六十年代制作了基本的委员会之前。“我想我是这里的第一个;我记得唯一的两个本地冲浪者是Bob Rodgers和Reg Loddard,“他说。鲍勃仍然是冲浪,并在彭布洛克郡冲浪的早期自我发表了一个小而有趣的数量(来自所有良好的当地冲浪商店5英镑)。

“然后人们开始来自加德夫。但彭布洛克郡没有年轻人 - 没有工作。“在这里,保罗击败了为什么西威尔士州的冲浪场景一直相对较低的关键。

“”彭布洛克郡没有年轻人 - 没有工作。“西威尔士州海浪场景的一个原因一直相对较低......”

“在二十岁时,人们有很大的短缺,所以我想这就是为什么冲浪从未在初期在这里起飞,假日行业也不像今天那样。”There’s still a relative shortage of young people in the area, despite the less than tantalising offer of poorly paid seasonal work in the burgeoning holiday industry, and when the howling winds, driving rains and long, dark nights of winter draw in, many of those employed in seasonal work head off to warm waves or snow, which means when the waves are at their best the ‘crowds’ are at their smallest (also aided by the fact that the less hardcore don’t always want to paddle out when it’s cold and/or big).

这并不是说你只能在这里用几个配偶和好奇的印章进行冲浪。You can’t keep much secret these days thanks to internet surf reports and social media so what were ‘semi-secret’ spots in my youth certainly won’t be surfer-free zones when conditions are right, which as stated above is usually in winter.

我正在考虑南方彭布洛克的空心沙滩休息和几乎神秘的点休息笨拙的gwaelod.;特别是后者曾经只知道少数几个,但现在是威尔士各地威尔士在合适的条件下的挥手车的合法冲浪目的地。这项技能在于确切地知道何时何地发生“正确的”条件 - 这是哪些自由裁量权阻止我在这里揭示......

“这项技能在于了解'正确的'条件的何时何地发生 - 这是哪些自由裁量权阻止我在这里揭示......”

但除了偶尔的杂志以外的杂志从基于Mumbles的冲浪摄影师和Flaneur.“鳃”,威尔士西部的冲浪媒体覆盖了任何类型。'冲浪部落',英国冲浪的咖啡馆风格历史,也许是我们潮湿和风吹虫的运动中最详细的工作,但它只提供了西威尔士在其页面中的最多赌徒(我们深刻地感恩,对于谁想最终像康沃尔?)。

For many of those who do know the area one of its big attractions is, no doubt, the fact that it has stayed off the radar and as such hasn’t changed that much, for there’s something quite reassuring about knowing that as you head down the long dirt track to your favourite break very little in what you’re seeing has changed in decades. As an example, I recently came across a photo of my mate Tony Kitchell walking board under arm down to a fickle right-hander in North Pembrokeshire which is breaking double overhead, if not bigger. The picture was taken on a warm, sunny day in June 1996 and nothing in that image has changed other than Tony – the rubbly lane, the overhanging vegetation either side, the dark sea cliffs, golden beach and pale blue waves peeling away in the far distance are all the same now as they were then.

“知道这一点在你最喜欢的休息时间里,在你的观察到几十年来的事情里,就会让你走到你最喜欢的休息时间里,有些令人放心。

As I write this we’re moving into autumn and the waves are consistent – it hasn’t been flat for at least two weeks – but here comes the rub, and quite possibly the reason west Wales has for so long escaped recognition as a major surf centre.

随着这些波浪来风,有很多日子 - 有些日子我努力打开我的房子的门。因此,我贬低它是因为有时风真实地是一种物理力量,因为在户外选择冒险的任何人都尽可能困难地弯曲。

刚进入冲浪可以是一个使命;捆绑在汽车的屋顶上的板,当它争取向寒武典山脉驶向;克制成一个湿湿润的潜水服,就像氯丁橡胶帆板一样;当你用董事会挣扎在海滩上挣扎时,被刮风的爆炸缓冲。风吹在你脸上的雨雨,送去旋转进入你的眼睛,当天后来将在晚上锤子锤击,让你从睡梦中留下。

“有些日子,我努力打开我家的大门反对混蛋。”

这几乎无情的气象攻击足以阻止许多冲浪者,从大部分时间都在陆上骑行。但是,如此,它经常在英国的西海岸陆上?

信用:iStock.

True, but unlike most other stretches of the west coast that get surfable waves, here in west Wales if your local break is plagued by day after day of onshores you have few alternative spots where it will be offshore unless you’re prepared to drive some considerable distance.

甚至当你确实到了一个离岸的罕见地点时,风仍然会像拥有的东西一样咆哮,使得难以划船到波浪中,经常抬起面部,这很长时间变得很长比慢动作闭合。

我已经长大到了这些血腥的大西洋大西洋,经常从10月到4月的钟表作业,以及许多其他当地冲浪者。然而,也许这是那些被诅咒的暴风雨,实际上让事情保持如此低的钥匙在当地的冲浪场景中。I’ve had friends visit from Australia and Costa Rica who can scarcely credit that anyone would try to surf when blasts in excess of 50mph are smashing ashore for the fifth day in a row, and having experienced it once they don’t seem in any rush to come back.

So it seems that the very wind that is, right now, clattering around the eaves of my house and will probably keep me awake tonight is a blessing in disguise if you’re a surfer in west Wales, since it may be the very thing that keeps our waves relatively crowd free. Which kind of goes to show that every cloud has a silver lining – even if that cloud is being hustled along at 50mph by a howling gale…

在这里阅读11月的其余部分问题

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