我们在Anglet的一个露营地建立了基地,并迅速带着我们的六个帐篷,冲浪板,一般用具和偶尔的紫色塑料椅和花园侏儒的地方接管了该地点(给人一种更家常的感觉……)。
I don’t recall that we were too bothered about dawn patrols since we were on the piss most nights and usually woke with a stinking hangover, and given that selective memory always takes over when recalling past surf trips I’m sure we must have had our fair share of flat days, but what sticks in the mind are the memories of paddling out at Anglet, Hossegor, Biarritz Grand Plage (and even Zarautz on a brief foray into northern Spain) and trying time and time and time and time again to get to my feet and surf the face of a wave like all the cool, suntanned surf dudes around me.
“我仍然记得这种自由的感觉”
我的第一个真正的游乐设施是很长一段时间,但是最终在Zarautz和Hossegor之间的某个阳光明媚的海滩上开始发生。短短五秒钟,然后甚至十秒钟的骑行,摇摆不定,完全缺乏风格,但要成为追逐海浪的一生的基础。
朋友们受到了朋友的鼓励,即使是我从未见过的冲浪者,而且在水中的社交肯定比今天更加社交。与当地人和良好的英国人一起,我们还遇到,冲浪和喝了澳大利亚人,洋克和南非人,当时冲浪,即使在现在的欧洲冲浪资本中,也仍然是离网。
I’ve been back to surf in South-West France more times than I can count over the intervening years, and I always enjoy everything about riding waves here (apart from the crowds; and the currents on a big swell), but that first surfari was something special. And hey, how many people get to ride in a hovercraft on their first surf trip?!
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